1
Lift the car
- I used home-made wooden car-ramps, but you can use a jack and jack-stands, or store-bought ramps
Lexus IS Oil and Oil Filter Replacement
Tools (8)
Step-by-step instructions
2
Gather your tools
- The tools I used were:
- 14mm wrench for drain bolt
- Toyota filter housing wrench
- 1/2in rachet to drive the filter housing wrench
- Drain pan and clean/dirty rags
- Pick or small screwdriver to pull off the old O-ring
- Philips 3 screwdriver to remove filter housing access panel, can also use 10mm socket
- Big-mouth funnel
3
Remove oil filter housing access panel
- Remove the filter housing access panel with the screwdriver or 10mm socket
- There are 3 screws
4
Drain the oil
- Position your drain pan under the oil pan - it's right-side of engine
- Remove the oil pan drain bolt and try to avoid the mess!
5
Re-install the drain bolt
- Once the oil is drained, wipe around the drain hole with your rags
- Re-install the drain bolt with your 14mm wrench or socket - don't over-tighten it!
- You're supposed to replace the washer on the bolt every time, but sometimes you forget to buy new ones
6
Remove the oil filter housing
- Reposition your drain pan under the oil filter housing
- Loosen the filter housing with your filter-housing-tool, or possibly with large channel-lock pliers...
- While loosening it will start to drip - reposition your drain pan as required
- Remove the filter housing completely
7
Install new filter and clean filter housing
- Remove the old filter from the housing
- Clean out the housing as required
- It's usually at this point I switch to the next cleaner level of rag
- Remove the housing o-ring with a small screwdriver or pick - there is actually a cut-out in the lip to allow easy access - Thanks Toyota
- Wipe some oil on your new O-ring and ensure it's in the correct groove in the housing
8
Re-install filter housing and cover
- After preparing the filter housing with new filter and o-ring, screw it back into the opening
- It does not need to be super-tight, it seals with the o-ring, just snug it up
- Re-install the cover using your 3 screws from before, I recommend only using a screwdriver, since you want to barely torque these - they go into plastic
9
Re-fill the engine with oil
- Now it's time to go up-top and re-fill the engine with Oil
- I used Penrite HPR 5
- My 2008 Lexus IS350 took around 6.6L of oil to fill
- After I put in around 6L I took it down off the ramps to level the car before taking the final readings on the dipstick
- The dipstick is on the right-side of the engine on IS350
- The dipstick will only read correctly when the car is on level ground
- Now you get to clean up the mess with your remaining rags or kitty litter or whatever.
- Usually I start up the engine and run it for around 5 seconds (while listening intently) then check under for leaks
10
Final tool detail
- Maybe you have questions about the filter housing tool?
- It's a Moker, I got it from Amazon [link|https://www.amazon.com/Moker-Compatible-2-0-5-7-Highlander-Accessorie/dp/B083SRNWJB/]
- I'm in New Zealand, so the car is a JDM import from Japan, and I'm using locally-purchased Australian Penrite HPR 5 oil, and a Japanese JS Asakashi OE116J filter bought online from Singapore
Conclusion
After starting the car check underneath for any leaks.
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