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Moderate⏱ 2 - 6 h4 steps·Original on iFixit ↗

2013-Present Nissan Rogue Rear Rotors(Discs) and Pads Replacement

Note: I've replaced rotors and pads on both my Celica and an old Mk1 CR-V. These rear Nissan brakes were harder by far to remove. Allow time so you don't feel the need to rush and perhaps use too much force. ;)

Tools (13)

Parts (4)

  • BENDIX BCX70102 (Daily Driver) Copper Free Ceramic Axle Pack Kit buy ↗
  • Duralast Pin Boot Kit 16165 buy ↗
  • PERMATEX 85188 Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube; .5 oz. tube buy ↗
  • Anti-Seize Lubricant buy ↗

Step-by-step instructions

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1

Putting the car on stands

  • If you have the Tin wheel version like mine; remove the plastic covers. Then loosen the lug nuts. Mine were so tight I ended up heating a couple of them get them loose! ''Maybe the alloy wheel lug nuts are always easier?''
  • Jack the car and place it on axle stands. You can see where I placed my stands... there didn't seem to be clearly designated support points...
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2

Removing the Caliper and Pad Carrier

  • First open the hood and then the brake fluid reservoir. Next, insert a screwdriver or similar tool between the inner pad and the rotor; compress, (push in) the caliper piston. As soon as you're done doing so close the brake fluid reservoir, the fluid is hygroscopic. (absorbs water from thee air).
  • The Caliper is secured by slider pins with ***14mm*** heads. The top pin is directly in line with the brake hose, ''(sadistic design Engineer?)''. I needed to apply significant heat with a blow torch to loosen them. So ++I used a cheap vise-grip to shield the brake hose from the heat!++
  • Remove the pins with a 14mm socket. Note: the pin with the rubber on the end is the lower pin. Position the caliper in such a way that the hose will not be strained.
  • The Carrier for the Pads are held by two ***17mm*** bolts, they too required a good deal of heat to loosen.
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3

Removing the Rotors...

  • Most Rotors I have dealt with... a couple of taps... and they could be pulled off. Not These!
  • The rotors seemed to be bonded to the lugs and the wheel hub by rust. I was unwilling to strike the rotors hard since I feared it might damage the lugs and wheel bearings.
  • I used a wire brush attachment on a cordless drill I removed as much rust as I could. I next used a screwdriver to chisel off rust where the rotor met the wheel hub. I heated those areas with a blow torch then sprayed them with PB Blaster, repeating this on both sides.
  • When I could finally see a gap around the lugs I tapped the rotors loose with a mallet and pulled them off.
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4
  • Once I had removed the old parts, I brushed the rust off the metal shield and spayed it with rust converter, then enamel paint. I sprayed everything down with brake cleaner.
  • I ground rust off the places the pad tins contact and applied a bit of brake grease to prevent corrosion recurring under the tins.
  • I cleaned the sliding pins and the holes they sit in with wet and dry sandpaper, then sprayed them clean using brake cleaner. I re-greased the pins and put them back in place with new boots. ''(rubber tipped pin at the bottom!) ''
  • I applied a little grease to the contact points of the shoes for the emergency brake.
  • I clipped in the pins and reassembled everything. The job took far longer than anticipated due to the rust... but this was in upstate NY.
  • I didn't have any, but if you have tin wheels may want to apply anti-seize grease on the lugs. I sprayed them with lithium grease after they were fully tightened to help keep water out.
  • Once the car was back on the ground I applied and released the emergency brake a few times to work in the grease applied to the contact points.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Замена задних роторов (дисков) и колодок Nissan Rogue 2013-настоящее время — Carvin Garage · Carvin