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Moderate⏱ 1 hour18 шагов·Оригинал на iFixit ↗

Mercedes-Benz 114 or 115 Auto shifter bushings

Does your classic Merc have a loose shifter? Follow along as I replace the interior shifter bushes

Инструменты (7)

Запчасти (3)

Пошаговая инструкция

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1

Remove Ashtray

  • This guide only applies to floor-shift automatics, such as my 1976 230.6 (114.015)
  • This car was never sold in USA, as I'm in New Zealand, but the centre-console is the same for all the other 114 and 115 automatics (and probably other model ranges)
  • First step is to open and remove your Ashtray to gain access to the first set of screws
  • Push down on the metal tab - while pulling the ashtray out
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2

Remove Ashtray frame

  • After you've removed the ashtray you'll see the ashtray frame/bracket
  • Remove the two pan-head screws at the rear of the opening - ignore the two counter-sunk screws at the bottom for now
  • Careful when you pull it out as the connector for the cigar lighter contacts on left sticks out so you can't just pull it straight-out
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3

Remove front of center console panel screws

  • Now you can remove those two counter-sunk screws holding in the front of the shifter/center console panel.
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4

Pull up on single clip at rear of centre-console trim

  • The hardest, or second-hardest step
  • There is a simple metal trim clip holding the rear of the centre-console trim panel down (marked by a yellow box in photo 2)
  • You won't be able to see it easily, you can pry back the rubber trim in the marked area to gain a view of the clip (blue box area in photo)
  • In my car the plastic foot with the metal clip attached to it is cracked, so I added a small bit of wire to help pull it out next time so as not to break it (see red box in 3rd photo)
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5

Remove connectors and remove the panel

  • Ensure your handbrake is set, or you're not on a slope
  • Shift to neutral or other gears as required to get the console panel out
  • You'll need to angle the trim panel back and forth a little as the plugs for your hazards and rear defroster/demister get in the way
  • I've shown the units and their plugs in Yellow (demister) and Red (hazards)
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6

Remove the shifter backlight

  • It's simply clipped-in and you can pry using a small flat-head at the top to get it started
  • When you're re-installing it, you simply line up the V symbol on the shifter housing with the V symbol on the lamp holder
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7

Remove 3 bolts holding down the shifter surround

  • You'll need a 10mm socket - I used a 1/4in deep
  • There are 3 bolts, one on the right-side and 2 on the left
  • They have a small wavy washer, don't drop it down the centre-console when you pull them out
  • You won't be able to remove the surround fully until the next step
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8

Unscrew the shift lever and knob

  • First loosen the 15mm jam nut (outlined in red)
  • Now you can unscrew the shift lever/knob
  • When you're re-installing it ensure it's clocked correctly before tightening the jam nut
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9

Remove shift linkage housing bolts

  • There are four 10mm bolts, the left two bolts are hard to see, you'll need to pry the trim back a bit
  • The top-left bolt has the ground cable for the shifter backlight on it
  • The bolts have large flat washers on them, be careful not to drop them down the side of the console - use a magnet if necessary
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10

Disconnect the shift rod

  • After lifting up the shifter housing (black plastic part) you'll see it's attached to the shift rod below
  • The green thing in the picture is the driveshaft
  • To get better access, you can pull the shift rod towards the rear of the car (go through a few gears) as I did
  • The clip is fairly easy to remove with needle nose pliers and/or a small flat-head screwdriver
  • Be careful not to drop the clip down the side of the centre console or through the hole in the tunnel now revealed
  • These photos are actually from re-assembly, as you can see I lubed up all bushings with 3M Silicone paste - you could use any plastic-safe lube
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11

Remove "half-moon" from the housing

  • You'll see a plastic half-moon part (to stop dust and noise from entering the car) - it just pulls out
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12

Remove shift lever yoke - part 1

  • Remove a clip from one end of the small rod connecting the shift lever yoke to the main rod
  • Again as these photos were taken during re-assembly there is silicone lube present
  • You can see there is a tiny bushing in between the spring and the small rod on each end - these bushing are optional but cheap, mine were completely gone
  • The small bushing part number is: 1152670950
  • I used a small screwdriver and needle-nose pliers to remove the clip (slide in direction of red arrow)
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13

Remove shift lever yoke - part 2

  • Some better views of those tiny bushings as you pull the small rod out (slide rod out in direction of arrow)
  • These photos were during re-assembly so the bushing is fresh and clear, the old ones would probably be yellowed or cracked or missing
  • I put a blue circle on one end of the small rod and a red circle on the other end so you can identify them better
  • I used again the small screwdriver and needle-nose pliers to pry the spring back while re-inserting the bushings
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14

Shift lever yoke parts

  • And a final show of parts involved to attach/detach the yoke from the shaft
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15

The snap ring

  • Now the hardest or second-hardest step
  • Removing the snap-ring
  • If you have small snap-ring pliers this is probably pretty easy
  • If not you might be lucky like I was and the needle-nose tips fit into the holes
  • Even so it was a challenge to install and remove the snap-ring
  • Also the part will probably go flying, so do the disassembly in a place where you can find it if it goes flying
  • The washer goes under the snap ring
  • As you can see these photos are from re-assembly, my old bushing was yellowed and the left-side in pieces
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16

Slide out main shift rod

  • Finally you can slide out the main rod from the plastic housing
  • Here you'll see why you had to remove the plastic half-moon part
  • After you've got it all apart, the bushings (if any remain) should just push out
  • I cleaned up and then lubed the parts before reassembling
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17

The bushings themselves

  • My old bushing(s) vs the new parts
  • The second image is how the bushings are oriented on the part
  • The third image is the silicone paste lubricant on the bushing, ready to be slid back into the housing
  • Follow the steps in reverse order to re-assemble
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18

Wrap up and Tools

  • The main tools I used were Philips #2 screwdriver (not pictured), small flat-head screwdriver, small needlenose pliers, 10mm deep socket and drivers
  • Consumables were 3M Silicone Paste, paper towels and a bit of Brake cleaner
  • The car being worked on, an Orange Mercedes-Benz 1976 230.6 (type 114.015) with automatic transmission, in Right-hand drive as this is in New Zealand

Завершение

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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